Staying in Leith, Edinburgh's port

What it's like to stay in Leith

Leith was a town in its own right until 1920 and still feels like one: a working port at the mouth of the Water of Leith, with its own high street, its own accent and a fiercely loyal community. Today it is one of the most interesting parts of Edinburgh to stay in, especially if you like eating and drinking well.

The Shore, the old quayside where the river meets the docks, is lined with restaurants, seafood bars and pubs, including some of the most celebrated kitchens in Scotland. Leith Walk, the long road that links Leith with the city centre, is full of independent cafés, delis and restaurants from all over the world.

Since the tram extension opened in 2023, Leith is connected to the city centre and the airport without changing. Ocean Terminal and the Royal Yacht Britannia are at the northern end of the line, and Newhaven's harbour and lighthouse are just beyond.

Leith is a little further from the castle and the Royal Mile than the New Town, so it suits travellers who are happy to take a tram or a longer walk in exchange for a neighbourhood with more local character, and often better value.

Things to do in and around Leith

• Book dinner on the Shore, then walk along the river at dusk.
• Tour the Royal Yacht Britannia at Ocean Terminal.
• Walk the Water of Leith path upstream towards Stockbridge and Dean Village.
• Spend a Saturday at one of Leith's markets and independent shops.

Getting to Leith

• The tram runs from the airport through the city centre to Leith and Newhaven, with no change.
• From Edinburgh Waverley, take the tram from St Andrew Square or a bus down Leith Walk (about 15 to 20 minutes).
• Parking is easier than in the centre, but check the controlled zones before you leave a car.